Central Air Conditiner Filter

Air conditioning units do more than just cool the air inside your home, they actually “condition” the air as well by removing dirt and other particles, such as dust through the air filter. This is why it is important that the air filter is kept clean on a monthly basis and replace them every three months if you have the disposable type. Be sure to buy the correct size replacement filter and insert the new filter in the proper direction of the air flow indicating arrows. Replacing filters improves the performance of your air conditioner and reduces energy consumption between 5% and 15%. When filters are not changed routinely, your air conditioner has to work harder to cool your home and this ultimately may compromise the life span of your air conditioning unit.

Simple outdoor yard maintenance helps your air conditioner run properly as well. When you mow the lawn near the unit, be sure to avoid blowing any grass trimmings in the direction of your air conditioner. It is a good rule of thumb to maintain about a one foot area clear of the air conditioner unit so that no debris find it’s way into the unit that could cause problems. Occasionally rinsing down your outdoor air conditioning unit with a common garden hose is another simple maintenance tip. You can gently run a stream of water over the fan blades to rinse off dirt and other sediments that may have collected on the blades. If at all possible, have your outdoor air conditioner unit in a shaded place, since air in a shaded space is typically 5 or 6 degrees cooler compared to the air in a non-shaded space.

Changing our behavior in regards to how we live during the summer can affect our energy bills. A good tip is to not have your air conditioning unit on when the outdoor temperature falls below 68 degree Fahrenheit; this may cause the compressor to fail. In addition, purchasing a programmable thermostat will help to reduce summer energy costs. Program the unit to turn off when you leave and turn back on about 30 minutes prior to you returning home. Another good energy saving tip is to raise the temperature settings a little higher than you normally keep your thermostat at. It has been found that every degree of temperature can become up to a nine percent savings or decrease expense in cooling costs. It is best to have the air conditioner fan set to the position versus the on position because it is not necessary to have the fan run constantly. And, using ceiling fans to help move the cooled air in your home can make it more comfortable with your air conditioner set to a higher temperature than in summers past.

We are all busy with hustle and bustle of daily life but it is important to set aside the time now and go through your home to ensure that the ductwork is properly insulated, especially in the attic. You don’t want to be cooling your attic space! Be sure that there is no furniture covering up the vents in each of your rooms. Inspect the weatherstripping around your doors and windows to see if it needs to be replaced. Ensuring that your windows, doors and fireplace dampers are completely closed helps to prevent cooled air from unnecessarily escaping your home too. Lastly, if you limit doing laundry and using your oven to early morning or late evening this will help to keep your home cooler during the day when the outdoor temperature is typically at it’s warmest.

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In this article the term air conditioner will apply to a heat pump or a standard air conditioner. Both benefit equally from annual service tune-ups.

An air conditioner is a very tough piece of equipment. It is engineered to withstand all sorts of abuse and keep on running. This is great in most respects, but it can lead to complacency about maintenance. Like a car, air conditioners need regular tune-ups to run properly.

Without regular maintenance an air conditioner looses about 5% of it’s original efficiency for each year of operation. This means that the 12 SEER unit that you bought just a few years ago may be functioning like a 9 SEER unit today! The good news is that you can recover most of that lost efficiency through regular maintenance. Studies show that with regular tune-ups a unit will maintain up to 95% of it’s original efficiency. This means that the cost of an annual tune-up is recovered very quickly in savings on your monthly electric bill and reduced repair costs. A properly serviced air conditioner will also do a better job of dehumidifying your home.

Many local air conditioning firms offer special prices at this time of the year. Some even offer annual service programs that insure that you will be reminded of the need to service the unit at the beginning of the cooling and heating seasons.

The service check should include cleaning the condensing unit coils, checking the amp draw of the compressor, oiling the fan motors, checking that belts are well adjusted, and checking the system operating pressures and temperatures against the manufacturers specifications. One of the most important items to check is the coolant level (commonly know as Freon) in the air conditioner. A system that is only 10% low on coolant will cost about 20% more to operate! The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) recommends that coolant levels be checked every year.

If your unit is low on coolant, and more must be added, there are new laws governing its use. Freon is a chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) that will damage the Earths protective ozone layer if released into the atmosphere. The laws governing CFC’s now do not allow your air conditioner contractor to add Freon to a leaky system. They are first required to find and fix the leak in the system. Don’t ask them to violate this law as they may loose their license if they are caught doing this.

There are some things in addition to yearly tune-ups that you can do to help ensure a high level of comfort and proper system operation. First, buy good filters and change them regularly. Next, keep bushes and other materials away from the outside unit of your air conditioner. Another good idea is to avoid closing supply air outlets in your house. In almost all cases, closing supply outlets is harmful to the operation of the overall system.

All equipment, even the most reliable, needs routine maintenance. Complicated equipment like today’s air conditioners benefit in many ways from annual service. They recover much of their lost efficiency, they are less likely to suffer a major break down, they have a longer life span, they increase your comfort, and they operate for less money.

We all know that we can pay our auto mechanics a little now for routine service, or pay them a lot later for a major repair. The same idea holds true for your air conditioner or heat pump. If you don’t service your air conditioner or heat pump regularly, you’ll find yourself uncomfortable and broke.

In this article the term air conditioner will apply to a heat pump or a standard air conditioner. Both benefit equally from annual service tune-ups.

An air conditioner is a very tough piece of equipment. It is engineered to withstand all sorts of abuse and keep on running. This is great in most respects, but it can lead to complacency about maintenance. Like a car, air conditioners need regular tune-ups to run properly.

Without regular maintenance an air conditioner looses about 5% of it’s original efficiency for each year of operation. This means that the 12 SEER unit that you bought just a few years ago may be functioning like a 9 SEER unit today! The good news is that you can recover most of that lost efficiency through regular maintenance. Studies show that with regular tune-ups a unit will maintain up to 95% of it’s original efficiency. This means that the cost of an annual tune-up is recovered very quickly in savings on your monthly electric bill and reduced repair costs. A properly serviced air conditioner will also do a better job of dehumidifying your home.

Many local air conditioning firms offer special prices at this time of the year. Some even offer annual service programs that insure that you will be reminded of the need to service the unit at the beginning of the cooling and heating seasons.

The service check should include cleaning the condensing unit coils, checking the amp draw of the compressor, oiling the fan motors, checking that belts are well adjusted, and checking the system operating pressures and temperatures against the manufacturers specifications. One of the most important items to check is the coolant level (commonly know as Freon) in the air conditioner. A system that is only 10% low on coolant will cost about 20% more to operate! The Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) recommends that coolant levels be checked every year.

If your unit is low on coolant, and more must be added, there are new laws governing its use. Freon is a chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) that will damage the Earths protective ozone layer if released into the atmosphere. The laws governing CFC’s now do not allow your air conditioner contractor to add Freon to a leaky system. They are first required to find and fix the leak in the system. Don’t ask them to violate this law as they may loose their license if they are caught doing this.

There are some things in addition to yearly tune-ups that you can do to help ensure a high level of comfort and proper system operation. First, buy good filters and change them regularly. Next, keep bushes and other materials away from the outside unit of your air conditioner. Another good idea is to avoid closing supply air outlets in your house. In almost all cases, closing supply outlets is harmful to the operation of the overall system.

All equipment, even the most reliable, needs routine maintenance. Complicated equipment like today’s air conditioners benefit in many ways from annual service. They recover much of their lost efficiency, they are less likely to suffer a major break down, they have a longer life span, they increase your comfort, and they operate for less money.

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In top loading machines the agitator twists back and forth pulling the clothes down to the bottom of the tub. The clothes then work their way back up to the top where the agitator grabs them again. In a front loading machine, the clothes tumble and are plunged into the water over and over again. After the water is pumped out, the inner drum uses centrifugal force to wring out more water from the clothes by spinning at several hundred RPMs.

While the operation of front loading washing machines is substantially similar to that of top loaders, note that the rest of this article addresses only the top loading style of washing machine.

The design of washing machines vary by manufacturer, but the general principles are essentially the same. The controls consist of a timer, cycle selector mechanism, water temperature selector, load size selector and start button. The mechanism includes the motor, transmission, clutch, pump, agitator, inner tub, outer tub and water inlet valve.

The washer has two tubs, the inner tub with hundreds of holes in it and the outer tub which holds the water. During the spin cycle the inner tub spins, forcing the water out through the holes to the stationary outer tub.

The cycle selector controls may include separate or integrated controls for water temperature, water level, cycle selection and a start switch.

A lid switch, which indicates whether the lid is open or closed, will interrupt some or all of the washing machineoperations.

The water inlet valve connects to the water supply of your home and allows hot and cold water to flow into the tub.

The agitator is in the center of the inner tub. During the wash cycle, the agitator rotates back and forth (about 3/4 of turn) to pull the clothes through the water. At the conclusion of the wash cycle, the water is pumped from the outer tub and into the drain though the drain hose.

The pump, agitator and spin drum are driven by the motor. Some washing machines use direct drive, in which the motor is connected directly to the pump and transmission. Other machines uses a belt drive in which the motor drives the transmission through a pulley and belt. On belt driven machines, the pump is typically connected to the motor by a flexible coupling.

Your refrigerator has a compressor and a closed system of tubing that contains a gas (the refrigerant). The compressor pumps the refrigerant and compresses it. The refrigerant flows through the coils on the back or under the refrigerator and through an expansion valve to the inside of the freezer. As the refrigerant passes through the expansion valve the pressure drops and so does the temperature. Inside the freezer a fan circulates air over the cool tubing and the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the freezer’s relatively warmer air. If you prefer to just think of the fan blowing cold air into the appliance, that’s fine, it all works out to pretty much the same results. But technically, the heat is being pumped out rather than the cold being pumped in.

The cold air in most refrigerators, but not all, comes from the freezer. The cold air in the freezer passes through vents to the refrigerator. A thermostat in the refrigerator activates the compressor whenever the temperature rises above the set point on the temperature control. In some newer models there is a separate cooling coil for the freezer and the refrigerator and thus two temperature controls.

As the air in the refrigerator cools, the water in the air (humidity) condenses. Water that condenses in the freezer will freeze into frost. Most modern refrigerators have an automatic defroster in the freezer which prevents the build up of frost. The defroster is simply a heating element that is controlled by a defrost timer and a thermostat. The water from the melted frost drains out of the refrigerator into a pan beneath the refrigerator and evaporates.

A door switch closes a circuit when the door is opened and turns on the interior light. When the door is open some refrigerators will disable some components such as the fan, defrost heater or “through the door” ice and water dispensing.

A common question we hear pertains to operating a refrigerator in the garage or other unheated space during cold weather. Bottom line, refrigerators and freezers don’t cool efficeintly when operated at temperatures below, roughly, 45 degrees (F). The first reason is that the outside temperature may get low enough that the thermostat inside the refrigerator never gets warm enough to activate the compressor and so the freezer warms up to the outside temperature. Another problem is that if it gets too cold, the refrigerant pressure becomes too low to generate the necessary cold and so the freezer only chills down to the outside temperature.